First Journey Day 24: Labyrinth of Longing

Date: September 17, 2023
Location: Tripoli, Lebanon

On a clear day in Tripoli, on Lebanon’s north coast (Lebanon), I climbed to the Crusader-era citadel overlooking the Mediterranean. The city’s layered history, sea breeze, and distant souks framed an afternoon of sketching and quiet reckoning.

Citadel Above the Sea

I found myself at the Citadel of Raymond de Saint-Gilles, perched high above Tripoli. The panoramic views of the city and the shimmering Mediterranean were breathtaking. The citadel, with its ancient stones and tales of bygone eras, spoke to me in whispers. I set up my easel and began to sketch.

Quiet Moments Amid Stone and Light

The play of light and shadow on the old stones, the distant hum of the city below, and the gentle breeze carrying the scent of the sea made for a serene ambiance. As my pencil moved across the paper, I felt a deep connection to this place. The history, the stories, and the very essence of Tripoli flowed through me and onto the canvas.

On Hawak, the Soul’s Longing

I met a local artist, Rasha, who was also sketching the citadel. We exchanged stories, shared techniques, and spoke of our love for art. She introduced me to the concept of “Hawak,” a term used to describe the soul’s longing. I realized that my journey, my art, was my “Hawak.”

The Scent of Incense from the Souks

From the hilltop, a faint ribbon of spice and incense drifted up from the old markets—an echo of the city’s trading past that seemed to thread itself into my lines and washes.

Choosing Stillness Within the Sketch

As the sun began to set, casting a golden hue over the city, I packed up my things, my heart full of gratitude. Today was not just about creating art; it was about understanding the soul of a place and connecting with it on a profound level.

Travel Notes

• Weather: Clear sky, about 82.7°F (28.2°C); lively easterly breeze; bright afternoon with a high UV index (~8). The stone kept its warmth well into dusk.
• Scents: Sea salt and sun-warmed stone, with distant traces of incense and citrus peeling up from the souks.
• Sounds: A soft city hum, gulls arcing over the harbor, occasional calls from below, and the scratch of graphite on paper.
• Reflection: Hawak gave a name to what the maze-like composition was already seeking—an inward path that turns toward the light.

Continue the Journey

If this entry resonated, you might also wander through yesterday’s reflections in Beirut or step into the next day’s shoreline quiet in Byblos.