Fifth Journey Day 101: Wingbeat Without Shadow

“Wingbeat Without Shadow” — a brushstroke echoing the stillness and light of Amman’s Citadel.

Date: August 17, 2025
Location: Amman, Jordan

In Amman, Jordan, the summer air carries the desert’s dry breath across limestone hills. Among the ruins of the Citadel, stone and sunlight become inseparable, holding memory and endurance in the stillness of the heat.

The Atmosphere of the Citadel

The air in Amman felt dry and gritty, like it was made of powdered stone. I walked up toward the Citadel, my steps slowing on the hill, the city stretching in layers of beige and white. The ruins stood quietly against the sky. They were made of broken columns and walls that no longer enclosed anything. The stone had been exposed to so much sunlight that it appeared to glow from within.

Touching the Stone

I touched the edge of one weathered block. The surface felt warm and uneven. The light was constant, making shadows disappear until late afternoon when the hills began to appear less bright. From the ridge, I could see the whole city. The buildings were tumbling down slopes, and the streets wound like threads. I could hear the call to prayer drifting across from different directions.

Echoes of Time

What I remember most is the feeling of time being suspended in the air. Children were playing near the ruins, their voices echoing through the spaces where kings and soldiers once stood. A tourist balanced her phone against a broken wall to take a timed picture. A man sat alone, eyes closed, as if listening to something deeper than sound.

A Sudden Shift in Air

I felt both present and out of step — my body still feeling the weight of the humid air from Salalah, and needing to breathe water every time I inhaled. The change was almost too sudden, but it made things clearer. Here, the details are clear: stone, dust, a fig tree at the edge of a wall, a bird circling above with wings catching the light.

Stillness in Stone

This city is not the place for rushing. It asks for endurance, patience in the heat, and the ability to read variations in beige. Tonight, as the air cools slightly, I think about stone as both weight and memory. Tomorrow, I will need to move differently — more slowly, more lightly, and more deliberately.

Travel Notes

• Weather: Dry heat, pale blue skies, around 32°C in the afternoon, cooling slightly with a faint evening breeze.
• Scents: Dust, faint sweetness from figs, and sun-warmed stone.
• Sounds: The overlapping call to prayer, children’s voices echoing through ruins, and a bird’s wings slicing the still air.
• Reflection: Amman teaches slowness — endurance through heat, patience with light, and attentiveness to subtle details.