Fifth Journey Day 132: Silence Carried by Wind

"Silence Carried by Wind" — A calm thread of water and sky held together by the plateau’s steady breath.

Date: September 17, 2025
Location: Ardahan, Turkey

Today’s walk unfolded in Ardahan, on the high, open reaches of northeastern Turkey. Here the Eastern Anatolian plateau thins the air and sharpens the wind, and the upper Kura River threads through steppe grasses and stone, offering a quiet counterpoint to the vast horizon.

The Atmosphere of the Plateau

I arrived in Ardahan this morning, and I was impressed by how spacious it is. After the folded valleys of Şavşat, the openness felt almost unfamiliar. The wind felt cold and strong against my skin, reminding me that the plateau is very open and exposed. Each breath felt clearer, though colder, as if the air had been strained of softness.

Walking the Kura River

I chose to walk along the Kura River. The path curved gently, and the water moved steadily, but not quickly. Its surface was a pale gray-blue, moving with small ripples that caught fragments of light. The banks were rough, covered in stones, and the grass grew in short, thick patches. Some birds flew close to the water. Their wings shone for a moment before they flew away. The sound was low and even, and it carried further than I expected in the open air.

Scale and Horizon

What I noticed most was the size. The river was small, but it felt like a quiet thread holding the land together because the plateau was so big. I often stopped to look out at the flat stretches, noticing how the horizon had a faint haze. It felt endless and grounding at the same time, as though the weight of the sky pressed down evenly over everything.

The River’s Voice

I thought about how water changes its voice depending on place—turbulent in Artvin, hushed in Karagöl, restless in Trabzon. Here, the Kura spoke in a calm and determined way, moving forward without rushing. It matched the emptiness around it, not competing with it, just belonging.

Quiet Strength by Night

Tonight, I feel both smaller and steadier. The openness of Ardahan lets you see everything, but the river's movement reminded me that sometimes, quietness can also be active. That is the memory I have from today: water flowing calmly through a land that just wants to be there.

Travel Notes

• Weather: Pale blue skies with high, streaked cloud; cool, dry air at 10°C; a steady plateau wind with a sharp edge that clears the lungs.
• Scents: Clean cold air with hints of dry grass and river stone; a faint mineral smell rising from the banks.
• Sounds: Low, even water; wingbeats flashing and gone; wind moving across open ground, carrying every small noise farther than expected.
• Reflection: The Kura’s calm made stillness feel active—progress without haste, belonging without announcement.

Continue the Journey

You may also enjoy the city’s murmurs in Fourth Journey Day 157: Market Fragments, or step into a nearby edge of the plateau with Fifth Journey Day 127: The Wall Listens Sideways.