Fifth Journey Day 194: Bicycle with the Flat Tire

Date: November 18, 2025
Location: Mamou, Guinea

Arriving in Mamou, in the Fouta Djallon highlands of Guinea, I stepped into lighter air and an easy tempo. Attaya tea moved slowly from glass to glass, and the red earth held the day’s warmth. The town’s rhythm invited stillness as much as movement.

The Atmosphere of Khareef

The road to Mamou stayed with me longer than I expected. The hills and curves made me feel like I was still leaning into them even after I got to flat ground. The air here is different from the air in Kindia. It is lighter and feels almost cool. I noticed it right away when I got out of the shared taxi, a small shift that made my shoulders loosen.

Quiet Moments at a Tea Stall

I didn't do a lot today, but maybe that was the point. I found a small place near the main road that sold attaya. Two men were making tea slowly and deliberately. They poured, lifted, and returned the teapot to its original position. Each movement was calm and unhurried. I sat there for a while with my glass, letting the sweetness settle on my tongue. A few children passed by, looking at me for a second before running off. It felt natural to not say much.

The Scent of Frankincense

Not frankincense, exactly—more an earthy, unfamiliar note carried by the highland breeze. It also has a scent that feels both earthy and unfamiliar. I noticed it right away; a small change that loosened the day.

Choosing Stillness Over Sketching

I walked a short distance after the tea, not too far. A woman selling vegetables was sorting her tomatoes as if they were something delicate. A boy pushed a bike with a flat tire, moving at a steady and determined pace. There were small scenes, but they were important for the day.

The artwork, Bicycle with the Flat Tire, comes from that steady push—patience shaped into a line.

A City in Sync with Rain

From where I was sitting, I could see a hill in the distance, the line of it soft against the gradually darker sky. The light stretched across the red earth, making everything look less fixed. It was as though the town were breathing slowly in its own rhythm. I felt myself become quiet. I'm not tired. I'm just open, which is how arrival sometimes makes us feel.

I'm back in my room now, with the window open, and I can hear motorbikes passing and a bird calling in the distance. The air is warm but not too hot. I'm not expecting anything from tomorrow. Tonight, I just need to relax and enjoy the peace of Mamou.

Travel Notes

• Weather: Warm highland air, muted sun, thin clouds; about 23°C with a light, almost cool feel.
• Scents: Earth after sun, tea sweetness, a dry resinous note carried on the breeze.
• Sounds: Motorbikes threading the road, a distant bird call, the soft clink of glasses and the slow pour of attaya.
• Reflection: Arrival loosened the shoulders. Small scenes—tomatoes handled like porcelain, a boy’s steady walk with a flat tire—were enough.

Continue the Journey

You may also enjoy reading yesterday’s humid hush from Fifth Journey Day 193: Humidity Holding the Voice in Kindia, or another moment from Guinea along the coast in Fifth Journey Day 192: Graphite Softening in Humidity (Conakry).