Fifth Journey Day 152: The Pause That Held Water

"The Pause That Held Water" — A quiet wash of Neretva green holding its breath beneath Stari Most.

Date: October 7, 2025
Location: Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

In Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, the day moved with the Neretva River’s changing green and the stone arc of Stari Most. Ottoman-era streets, the call to prayer drifting across the valley, and limestone warmed by late light set the pace for a reflective afternoon where history feels close enough to touch.

The City That Floats Above the Neretva

The city feels like it's floating — part air, part echo. I walked through the old town this morning, and the stone streets felt like they remembered every step I took. The bridge's surface shows uneven wear, with a smooth center and rougher edges. When I leaned over the rail, I could feel the cold rising from the Neretva River. The water is impossibly green. It's not emerald, not jade, but something in between. It changes depending on how the light falls on it.

Copper Coffee and Quiet Corners

I found a small café behind a line of market stalls. The sound of the spoon stirring coffee in the copper pot reminded me of a bell. It was quiet, but it was also loud. I sat outside and drank slowly, watching the sunlight move down the wall of a nearby house.

Stones Softened by Vines

The plaster was cracked in some places, and a vine had climbed through one of the windows. It looked almost deliberate, as if the building had been softened.

Choosing Stillness Over Sketching

At dusk, I returned to the bridge. The air grew cooler, and people gathered at the edges to watch the sky fade. When the call to prayer began, the sound echoed across the water in overlapping waves. For a moment, it seemed like the whole city stopped breathing — not because everyone was praying, but because everyone was quiet. I didn't draw or take pictures. I just watched the last light of day disappear as it traced the outlines of the hills.

When the City Holds Its Breath

Tonight, the window of my guest room is open. The sound of the river is like the sound of folding fabric. I feel a kind of calm I can't name — not peace, not sadness, something in between. Mostar has that quality: it doesn't speak, but it listens back.

Travel Notes

• Weather: Clear and mild at 17°C; a faint wind rising from the river; late-afternoon light with a soft gold tint; cooler air settling at dusk.
• Scents: Strong coffee from a copper pot, cool limestone, a green note from climbing vines.
• Sounds: A spoon ringing against copper like a small bell; steady breath of the Neretva; soft footfalls on worn stone; the call to prayer in overlapping waves.
• Reflection: A held pause between peace and sadness, as if the bridge and river were listening back.

Continue the Journey

You may also enjoy another quiet moment from Mostar in Second Journey Day 85: Lejla Ibrahimović, or step back to a nearby chapter in Sarajevo with Adem Hadžić.